Chapter in Hu-nan, the Closed Province of China HE general condition of affairs as to the hostility of the Hu-nanese and the difficulty of travelling through Hu-nan was known before our leaving New York, but on arriving in Shanghai it was found that the political disturb- ance following the coup (Vetat executed by the Empress Dowager and the beheading of certain members of the Reform or Emperor's Party, had rendered the whole Chinese official class very cautious about taking a decided stand upon any important question, especially upon one looking to the invasion of the country by foreigners, even if they came with peaceful intents. A stop was made in Shanghai only long enough to purchase provisions and equipment, when the engineering staff left there for Hankow to begin the survey to Canton. As our course from Hankow lay to the Nan- ling Mountains, which form the divide of the water-shed of the Yang-tze Valley from that of the China Sea, along the Yang-tze and its trib- utary the Siang for a distance of nearly five hundred miles, it was decided to establish head- quarters afloat, and thus avoid the difficulties and dangers of sleeping on shore, except when the latter was absolutely necessary. One morning 54