PARTITION: Tape 49 TAPE 49 Writer 255MODEM Mod Date & Time 255MODEM Mar 20 17:15 Side A Malar Kotla - former princely state ruled by a Muslim Nawab; the only town in Indian Punjab which now has a Muslim majority; one resident estimated total town popn of 100,000 +, 60% Muslims, with more Hindus and Sikhs; most of surrounding villages mainly Sikh; big cattle market - almost exc for Sikh farmers - on edge of town; very pleasant old town, with Muslim dhabas, and many small workshops speciliasing in emboridered military epaulettes and badges for armed forces all over the world; one shop showed epaulettes and badges for Indian, U.K., Israeli and Kuwaiti armed forces. Many masjids in old town, a maZe of well-kept narrow alleyways. The Jama Masjid very attractive and well-kept. The Nawab's place, an imposing uilding, is in the old town - the last Nawab died without an heir, but his three Begums still live there. Few women in the streets, but some that are wear burqas. Old town mixed, thjos o/whelming Muslim. Youngsters learn in urdu - one said he cd read Urdu (and proved it) Punjabi and English - but not Hindi. Ate in a small dhaba opposite the Kamal cinema - one of several; specialised in meat, spicy, freshly coooked, and tasty. Locals sd there had been tension after the demolition of the Babri Masjid (Ms apparently damaged Hindu and Jain temples, thos one man sd they later helped make good the damage). The town has a different feel to others in Indian Punjab - not as prosperous, but much more homely and relaxed. At office of Jammat-e-Islami: Hind, a considerable library of works in urdu. Given three boks about the Prophet and Islam. (20/3/97) ALL IN PUNJABI/URDU 2 > wildtrack of dhaba (two big bubbling pots of meat, one of rice, liver and rotis warmed up): prop - Mohammed ? Issar 36 > Ahmeddin: old man from MK interviewed in dhaba 45 > 'in 47 there was a lot of trouble - MK was a place where no trouble happened' 54 > 'this was a ... pirncely state and it had a nawab; the nawab protected the Ms here' [and story of Sikhs' respect for the M nawabas of MK] 85 > 'nothing happd here, it was v peaceful here, in fact a lot of ms from other parts of Punj came here seking refuge ... some 10 or 12 laks of Ms collected in MK in 47' 104 > wildtrack of people eating in dhaba [with drunk interrupting] GAP 120 > dhaba owner cooking FX, and serving up 131 > vox pop 'Musulmana khana ji ... Muslim food ...' 136 > Abdul Hamid: military badge embroider, 8 years old at partition time